On the Way to "the Pearl of the Adriatic"
- John Zuchero
- Oct 25, 2022
- 2 min read

After leaving Pescara (weeks 1 and 2) we drove three hours to Polignano a Mare. We immediately noticed a difference from Pescara: in Pescara, we were among the very few from somewhere else, while in Polignano we were joined by many, many other "tourists." English, German, French, American tourists streamed the tiny streets of this town built on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic.
Our apartment was on the outskirts of the old city in an area of new construction (although we never saw anyone actually working.) When we say "new construction, we mean it...you can't always believe the pictures on Airbnb or VRBO.
The first picture is the view out our porch, the second picture is the crane in our back porch, and the third picture is the construction area behind our place.
The apartment was quite small with a tiny kitchen area, but tastefully decorated, so we went out to lunch most afternoons. One day we went to a small outdoor restaurant right on the Adriatic where we had an unusual pizza that was dough with burata Stracciatella (shreds of Fresh Mozzarella soaked in sweet cream and made to order from fresh milk gathered daily from local farmers) mortadella (finely ground pork slices; we hate to say it but its like Italian bologna) with crushed pistachios. It was excellent, but the best part is they served it with a scissors to cut individual pieces!

On another afternoon, we spent two hours over lunch at a restaurant where we tried the nine course appetizer lunch. No pictures because it was just too nice.
As we wandered the streets, we passed the statue of Domenico Modugno.
Modugno, is the singer of Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu, universally known as "Volare."

Modugno was born in Polignano a Mare. But locals say he always said he was from Rome; yet, still they have a statue of him in a square.
People of a certain age will recognize this as a major hit in America (it was the #1 Billboard single for 1958.) John's mom would hum this as she did housework. To hear this "classic" click here to see Ed Sullivan introduce Modugno to America. Or if you're a Dean Martin fan click here for his English rendition.
Our last day in town we went on a boat tour of the caves that make up the underside of the old city. Nancy and John on a small boat with four Gen Z couples.
This particular tour ended with a dip in the crystal clear Adriatic (if you wanted to; guess who wanted to?)
The trip was capped off with a cup of champagne, John stayed in the boat but had the champagne while he sang the first two verses of Voltare for the boat's captain. No, we're not linking to John singing, for as the captain said after a verse and a half, "that's enough!"
Well that was it for our one week stay in Polignano a Mare. Next, we're off to Lecce, "the Florence of the South" and a stay in the sixteenth century Palazzo Spada, situated in the very heart of the historical center of Lecce (we're here as we write this, and we can say this palazzo is fantastic!




















I love reading these posts. And FYI, I listened to both Volare singers :)
I just love all of this!!
Wow sounds amazing
Oh please, please, please tell me you recorded John signing Volare! Vooo-laaaar-eee!
Amazing!!